Varanasi, a true symbol of religious India, is often seen by tourists as a city full of swindles of all sorts for westerners, polluted Ganga, and death. However, "Kashi", the luminous, shelters above all more than a million inhabitants who chose to live in this sacred city, one of the oldest in the world. Daily, thousands of Hindus go down to the ghats on the Ganga, the elixir of life, in order to, not only do their ablutions, prayers and offerings, but also bathe, do their laundry, drink and live their faith. Others, from every circles and every casts in the country, also come to die on the wooden stakes of Varanasi, hoping to reach illumination. These are the inhabitants, and their stories, that we tried to encounter and get close to.